I think i will have a go with the JB Weld for now and get it functional.
Will see what is available at our local auto stores.Īs for a new bed, that will run about $400! Most of the parts are going to be washed in some form of degreaser this week. Would a good coat of paint protect from this? Some parts have thick, heavy surface rust on them from this. So why do they put aluminium parts in contact with steel parts on this lathe? Galvanic reactions have been known about for a long time. I was wondering if anyone can answer this question? It is now in hundreds of pieces, a lot of them cleaned and stripped of paint.Īm going to try and sandblast some small bits and see what they come out like. That was the lathe as it arrived in the back of my car. The aerosols I used to use no longer have enough body and pigment to suit me so I've gone back to cans. I then usually put on one light coat and then one heavy brushed coat of machine grey enamel. Once things are stripped and cleaned, the last time with hot soapy water, I prime bare metal (including aluminum) with an automotive self-etch primer and iron castings with a high volatile red oxide primer. When that's the case I figure the old paint will be as good as a primer so just leave it, and prime over it. For painting, generally I try to get back down to the bare metal surfaces but sometimes when the paint has been there for a lifetime that's not easy to do. I gather it's now the preferred thing for auto restorationists. This medium removes paint and grunge and leaves machined and even ground surfaces virtually untouched. I'm currently rebuilding a Rockwell 15" drill press and have discovered soda and Co2 blasting. It's too easy for the guy to blast something that shouldn't be, but if you can control the blasting and mask well, that would be different. For the bed surface I scrubbed it well with Scotchbrite and kero, and ran a large, new, file along all sides to knock down any pips that had been raised from impacts, and that was it.Īs for finishing, first I would prefer not to sand-blast anything.
I used Scotchbrite wheels to brighten up misc bare metal but NOT on plated or ground surfaces. I used furniture paint stripper on stubborn stains or grunge, but generally I got by with very little of that. Most of the cleaning work was done in a home-built parts washer using kerosene (parafin) as the solvent and various bristle brushes and scouring pads, Scotchbrite, etc. The bare metal on the restored one, in particular the critical surfaces such as the ways and spindle, were all in very good condition so one of the challenges was to protect these during restoration. The photos are of different machines but the restored one (photo 2) was in about the same condition as in photo 1.